One day recently my battery leaked in a Soviet-built apartment. In my mind, I could close the taps on the radiator, fix the battery and continue to use it quietly. But bad luck, no taps were installed. I had to write an application to the local thermal power plant, pay to turn off the riser, and only then dismantle the battery. Don't want to face the same problem? Then let's look at the options for fittings for radiators and how they can help you during operation.
Installation of taps on radiators
The next stage of installation of the heating system is the installation of shut-off and control valves in the passage plugs.
On radiators, “full bore” ball valves or valves are installed, in which manual adjustment of the coolant movement operates. Nowadays thermal heads are produced that have automatic flow control. Faucets for heating systems can have different designs, but the most practical are considered to be faucets with an “American” connection with union nuts. The advantage of faucets with an “American” connection lies in their design, which allows you to remove any type of radiator without turning off the heating system. With the help of such a tap, the flow of coolant is quickly shut off, and to remove the battery you only need to unscrew the threaded connection.
The use of American taps is especially in demand when the heating system is forced to start when the heating devices are installed on a rough wall. Their use allows you to easily remove the radiator and finish finishing work on a section of the wall without turning off the heating system (filling the grooves, puttingtying or plastering the walls, hanging wallpaper, and so on). The most important thing is that taps with a detachable “American” connection can be used repeatedly, regardless of the type of gasket (rubber or paranitic) or the option when sealing is carried out only using conical parts made of a stainless alloy.
Valves with union nuts can be straight or angled. They are selected depending on the pipeline supply system to the radiator (from the wall or niche slopes).
The tap is screwed into the plug with an “American” connection using a special key, which is inserted inside the pipe. The cross section of the key can be of very different shapes. It’s easier if you use a hexagon, just choose the appropriate size for the job. It’s more difficult when there are two protrusions in the “American” connection; you have to look for a suitable profile for a reliable hook.
Sometimes they use the jaws of an adjustable wrench or pliers, but more often craftsmen make an L-shaped wrench with a square cross-section. Its ends go slightly to a cone. This allows you to work with different manufacturers of faucets with an American connection.
The connection of the passage plug is sealed with the “American” pipe using a winding. Plumbers use imported flax and investment paste (UNIPAK type) for these purposes. FUM tape is used when the thread profile does not have sharp corners. Also, the thread must have a special notch that prevents the sealing material from twisting.
The two parts must be checked for thread compatibility by connecting them without tow. The degree of density of the assembled compound indicates how much tow needs to be used. With a large layer of winding, cracks may form or thin-walled parts may become deformed. And an insufficient layer often causes connection leakage.
The winding must be collected into a thin bundle and wound in the direction opposite to the direction of the pipe thread. You need to start from the edge of the thread that comes out. It is necessary to fill the entire depth of the thread with flax fibers, pressing the previous one with each new turn and not allowing the winding to scroll. Next, the part is lubricated with UNIPAK paste, which is then screwed into place.
If the heating system is installed using metal ball valves, threaded couplings necessary for switching to polypropylene pipes are screwed onto them using winding. The Mayevsky valve included in the radiator fitting kit comes with a rubber gasket, so it does not need winding.
Radiators prepared for operation are installed in their place, after which the installation of pipes can begin. After completing the installation of the heating system, you need to start it up by first filling the riser from bottom to top with coolant and bleeding the air. It is necessary to open the supply valve and check the connections for leaks.
Proper replacement of heating batteries is a good way to increase the heating efficiency in your home or apartment and reduce the cost of paying bills. This work can be done quickly and easily with your own hands, but if you are not familiar with the intricacies of the process, it is better to turn to professionals.
Purpose of fittings
A faucet installed near the radiator can perform one of the following functions:
- Changing the amount of coolant entering the radiator. In this way, the heat transfer of the battery is regulated, and, accordingly, the temperature in the room;
- Complete disconnection of the radiator from the heating system. Most often this is done for repair work;
- Reset work environment. Performed when performing repairs or to flush the battery;
- Air release.
Since the pressure drop in the heating system is very insignificant, even a small air lock can stop the circulation of the coolant. By bleeding the air, we eliminate the cause of the blockage and restore the functioning of the system.
In apartments and private houses, ball valves are installed on radiators of heating systems. This type of valve is also called a plug valve. Inside it there is a metal ball rotating around an axis perpendicular to the axis of the pipeline. The ball has a through hole, the cross-section of which is equal to the cross-section of the pipeline (the diameter of the ball itself exceeds the clearance of the pipeline). By rotating the handle, the user turns the ball, and the axis of the channel made in it either aligns with the axis of the pipe (water flows through the tap) or occupies a position perpendicular to it (water does not flow through the tap). The tight fit of the ball in the seat is ensured by the plastic shell covering it.
Ball valve is the most popular type of shut-off valve for pipelines with a diameter of less than 50 mm. Their main advantage is speed: you can shut off the flow of water in the pipeline in one motion by turning the valve 90 degrees. The principle of the valve design eliminates leaks through the hole for the stem, so there is no need to install an oil seal, which would have to be changed periodically. Thanks to the advent of new materials and technologies, all the shortcomings that were characteristic of plug taps in the past have been eliminated in modern models. Today they are reliable, practical and durable devices that are very easy to work with.
Procedure for replacing heating radiators
Correct and incorrect installation of radiators. Click on photo to enlarge.
If it is necessary to replace central heating heating devices, it is necessary to coordinate the upcoming work with the housing office. It is necessary to shut off the system and drain the coolant (in a private house this is also relevant).
We notify and negotiate with the neighbors below and above about replacing the risers below and above the ceilings on the floor. We dismantle old pipes and radiators. If the old heating system does not have special threaded connections, we use a gas cutter or grinder.
We prepare and install new radiators. It is better to replace old batteries with any new type of radiator, the main thing is that the structure is securely fastened.
We cut new threads on the risers. Currently, welding is not used when connecting pipelines. Radiators are connected to pipes using threaded connections. This simplifies installation, they are reliable and practical to use. We assemble a pipeline system and connect heating devices.
Risers and valve that cuts off heating areas
The recommendations of specialists in this case do not differ in the originality of the solution, since plug valves are considered the best choice. It is necessary to create conditions in the risers for discharging the coolant liquid and plugs are chosen for this purpose, but they are not always convenient, since it will be quite problematic to unscrew the plug on the supply riser, through which a water flow with a water temperature of about 90 degrees circulates.
As a result, the conclusion is obvious: valves should be installed to discharge the water.
In this situation, you can use screw devices, since they will not have significant disadvantages:
- if the oil seal is installed correctly, it will not have contact with the water flow under pressure;
- water hammers become impossible, since the valve is mostly closed;
- To replace the gaskets, you do not need to reset the entire house system - it will be enough to stop the riser.
Installing a tap on a radiator
Replacing the heating radiator.
Published by Thermoregulator entrance · December 20, 2018 Tags: Khrushchev, Cast iron, Adjustment, Dirty_pipes
It is very hot in the apartment - These are not freezing with a lower supply in the heating riser. When the apartment is cold, they also want to install a tap in front of the radiator - but already on: thoughts often arise that through it a lot of water goes past the radiator.
If thoughts come to you:
In short: who doesn’t want to be a Bedouin on a camel in an Arab country - there is only one way: install a control valve on an old cast-iron battery.
Often, before installing batteries, customers squeal: I want 26 -28 degrees. But it also happens the other way around - for those who suffer from the heat in the apartment: it is literally impossible to sleep! Or living in drafts with the windows constantly open - this is unacceptable with small children!
It is better to install a tap on a very hot radiator during the heating season: the beginning or the end - since working on old cast-iron fragile radiators and rusted pipes is very dangerous: it will burst and you won’t notice. A pressure test is required when heating is started.
You also need to be mentally prepared for the next big expenses: purchasing a new radiator and a complete new installation. Probability: fifty-fifty - 50 to 50%.
There is a decent length of pipe between the riser and the battery: there is room to install a new faucet. And the old welds on the riser and the rusty end cap on the end of the battery are safe.
They cut the pipe and immediately stunned the client - with terribly dirty pipes: the jaw did not drop, but immediately fell on the collarbone with a thud. In general: we presented this cut piece of pipe to the customer.
On such dirty pipes, it is better to install full-bore valves: there is less chance of clogging and failure. But they installed an Itap control valve with a smaller flow area than the FAR.
And at such a minimum flow area, the cast iron was heated up like a steam locomotive. We worked at minimum wage: we didn’t take out the pipe bender and gas welding equipment - otherwise it would be easy to accelerate to the end: until a comprehensive replacement.
If in the process of cutting threads or screwing on taps, something burst: when the heating was started, there would immediately be leaks. Gas welding is always in the car near the entrance (figuratively: plumbing resuscitation - quick restoration of heating in winter). And immediately complete installation of a new radiator (already with the replacement of drains and a displaced bypass).
These old Soviet cast irons are now being sold new, but who doesn’t like their design?
large gaps between sections and the roundness of each section on the front surface - there are more beautiful KONNER Modern. The Belarusian flat model also falls under the same 2 design change factors.
Useful tips for choosing
Several features are described below in order to decide which products are best to use.
Locking mechanism
Thermostats have two types of locking mechanisms: a valve and a valve with a cone (rod). The latter is preferred, it allows for smooth adjustment. The temperature is set manually using a mechanical limiting ring. There are also electronic mechanisms, they are more autonomous.
It is better to install ball valves than gate valves, which have a number of disadvantages: the seal wears out faster, becomes overgrown with deposits, and takes a long time to close. Disadvantages of the Mayevsky crane: low maneuverability, it requires a special key or screwdriver, which is inconvenient to use. If its rod is accidentally unscrewed, it is very difficult to screw it back, overcoming the water pressure. Instead, it is recommended to install a regular valve or special automatic radiator air vents. The optimal and affordable option if temperature control is required is a faucet with a thermal head.
Housing and connections
It is better to install not standard ball valves on batteries, but full bore ones. In residential buildings and apartments, such mechanisms with a coupling connection are used.
It is better to choose taps for heating radiators with a steel or bronze body, but most often they use brass ones, since they are cheaper. An imitation of brass is silumin. You should not buy a product made from it; it is a very soft metal. Polymer ones are no less reliable, but they have large dimensions. To replace them, you need to cut out a piece of pipe.
Products with polymer rather than rubber gaskets are more durable. The taps for adjusting the coolant on heating radiators make it impossible to change them without draining the water; this can be done with straight-through taps or with an American valve installed (towards the battery).
Products from Itap (Italy) and Danfoss are considered to be of the highest quality. Approximate price range 700–2000 rub. In the middle price range there are Oventrop brand products - 550–950 rubles. For a limited budget, Luxor is suitable - 450–800 rubles. Chinese or Turkish brands.
Purpose and principle of operation
All heating system components require regular maintenance and fine-tuning, and significant energy savings can be achieved by managing battery performance based on heating needs. Installation of taps and valves makes it possible to:
- shut off the supply of the working medium as part of the inspection of individual batteries or their washing without the need to empty the entire system;
- bleed air pockets to increase the efficiency of the bond and reduce the intensity of corrosion processes on metal surfaces;
- suspend the operation of radiators in conditions when the room does not need to be heated;
- automatically or manually adjust the heat transfer intensity of radiators to maintain a comfortable microclimate.
Often the radiators are dimmed or turned off in the spring, when central heating overheats the room. When it is necessary to repair, replace or clean a heating device, shut-off valves allow you to perform any manipulation without damaging the system as a whole. Regulating radiator units also help balance the flow of coolant throughout the network so that all batteries in the bundle receive the same amount of heated liquid.
Automatic temperature control allows you to maintain the required air temperature, thereby eliminating the boiler’s excessive consumption of gas, solid fuel, and electricity.
Air valves, which are equipped with all modern types of heating devices, solve the problem of releasing air pockets; they can be manual or automatic. Angled and straight half-turn ball valves are available in combination (made of polypropylene and metal), bronze, and brass. Balancing valves are also divided into angular and straight, and control valves are equipped with thermal heads (they are called thermostatic valves).
Radiator installation
Let's figure out how to properly hang the battery with your own hands. Regardless of the type of radiators chosen, before installing them, you should carefully prepare the installation site. Very often, batteries are installed under windows to provide the necessary air convection.
When making a major renovation of a private house or apartment, the external walls are often insulated and the internal walls are sheathed with plasterboard. Before insulation, metal frames are installed. In this case, before installing new batteries, it is necessary to solve two problems: decide at what distance the radiator will be located from the supporting base, and install the fasteners in advance (the radiator cannot be mounted on drywall, especially cast iron).
To do this, the wall on which the battery will be mounted must first be sheathed with a frame. If leveling or plastering walls is done from scratch, special beacons are installed. In the case where the frame is mounted, 25 mm thick inserts are made in the places where the fasteners are installed. The material used is OSB or plywood. The inserts should rest with their bottom on the floor and fit into the UD profile. Each heating device requires two or three inserts, depending on the number of brackets planned (4 or 6).
After preparing the base, the location of the fasteners is marked. On temporary stands, the battery is installed in the designed position using a level. If the radiator is installed near a window, this is done in the center of the opening at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the floor and about 100 mm from the window sill. After marking, the battery is removed and holes for the brackets are made with a hammer drill. They need to be screwed in so that there is a distance of 30-40 mm from the back of the radiator to the wall.
Heavy cast iron radiators with more than ten sections should preferably be secured with at least six brackets. For other types of batteries, four is enough.
Why do you need a set of plugs for piping radiators?
Set of plugs for piping radiators. Click on photo to enlarge.
Each radiator has four open inputs (two on each side). This is done so that problems do not arise when connecting heating devices, since the connection can be different: one-way, cross, bottom, single-pipe. Before installation, depending on the connection option, radiators are prepared accordingly. Some entrances are closed with blind plugs, others are made through with ½ or ¾ inch threaded connections.
The procedure in which plugs and shut-off and control equipment are installed is called “packing” of threaded connections and is the most critical stage in the installation of a heating system. The reason is that after piping the radiators and starting the heating system, leaks can most often appear in these places.
The most common and effective type of connecting batteries in an apartment is considered to be a one-way connection, in which the supply is connected at the top of the left or right side of the radiator, and the “return” is connected at the same end of the battery at the bottom. To vent air from above, a Mayevsky valve is installed on the opposite side of the radiator, and the lower entrance is closed with a plug.
Each heating device must be equipped with a set of four plugs, three of which are pass-through and one is blind. We determine the thread (right or left) at the entrances to the outer sections of the radiator. We select plugs accordingly. The threads on the through plugs can be half-inch or ¾-inch in diameter. We select the diameter depending on the supply pipe. When supplying the twentieth pipe (outer diameter - 20 mm), a plug with a passage of ½ inch is selected. If the twenty-fifth pipe is being supplied, we take a ¾-inch plug. Such pipes are installed in a vertical single-pipe system when the battery is part of the riser.
It should be taken into account that the plugs have sealing gaskets, so there is no need to use any windings. When screwing in the plugs, you must apply a noticeable force, after using a knife to clean the base to which the plug gasket is adjacent. It is better to perform this operation even with new heating devices.
Valves
This fitting product performs exclusively a locking function. Due to the design features, the valves can only be in two positions, since the mechanism has a locking element located perpendicular to the coolant flow. If the valve element is in an open position, the heated liquid enters the circuit, and when it is closed, it does not allow it to circulate.
The valve has a number of features:
- Provides low hydraulic resistance in the circuit.
- It has an optimal internal diameter size that matches the cross-section of the pipeline.
- It's easy to install.
- It is highly reliable.
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Read with this
- How to choose and install an air valve for heating
- Connection diagrams for bimetallic radiators
- What to do if the bottom of the battery is cold and the top is hot?
- Review of taps for the heating system, description of their functional and operational features
- Benefits of using a duct extension for radiators
- Sewage check valve
- Leningrad heating system for a private house
- Safety relief valve: operating principle, applications and installation
- Heating battery does not warm up
- Installing a heating bypass: 15 photos with the process and examples of work
Taps that regulate battery temperature
Control valves for heating radiators are of the following types:
- standard;
- with thermal head.
The most successful way to solve the problem with coolant temperature is to install a thermostatic head. After it is adjusted with a trim throttle, it will serve throughout the heating season.
The control valve on the heating radiator will maintain a comfortable temperature in the room. The thermostat is mounted on the supply line of the supply pipe in such a way that the temperature-sensitive element is not subject to heating due to the ascending flow of hot air masses. A throttle is considered a cheaper option, but it needs to be adjusted manually depending on the required degree of heating of the rooms in the house, which is of course not very convenient. After all, both the radiator and the rooms have great inertia: the air temperature can stabilize only after several hours after the throttle opening is changed.
Also, to regulate the movement of coolant through the supply pipe, a conventional plug valve is used. In principle, it is not intended for this, but with its help, configuration is possible.
Option 2. Insertion of a manually controlled circulation pump
In this scheme, the movement of the coolant is controlled manually. In order for the coolant to move forcefully (through the pump), the bypass ball valve is closed and the valves near the pump are opened. In order for the coolant to move naturally, without the participation of a pump, the valves are closed in reverse.
